This is the first time I've used full extension drawer slides, and only the second time using drawer slides at all. I also have to deal with the shelf unit back is only 1/4" thick so I can't screw into the back of it. I also found out at this point the cabinet isn't as square as I thought. It took a while but I got it to work. (12/27/2019)

Here all the plywood for the other three drawers are cut to size and all the grooves plowed. I used some left over birch 1/2" plywood for the sides (big box stuff, not real Baltic birch) and left over 1/4" pine plywood for the bottoms. (12/27/2019)

Here the drawer boxes are glued and pin nailed together. I made the rookie mistake of setting the grooves for the front and back of the sides a full 1/4" back when 1/2" plywood is not actually 1/2". I still had a good fit but I had to trim off a slight overhang using a flush trim router bit. It also made the drawers slightly narrower but turned out to be within the drawer slide tolerance.(12/27/2019)  

I'm using the Kreg drawer slide jig to install the slides. I had some issues which I later attributed to my own inexperience with drawer slides. They still probable made installation much easier than trying to get everything aligned manually. It was also about this time that I figured out I should have waited to finish the carcass after the drawers were fitted. I had to do do some touch-up, particularly on the edges of the drawer openings. (12/28/2019)

Here all the drawer boxes are installed and adjusted. This took much longer than I expected and took a lot of little adjustments. For one of the drawers I ended up drilling out the screw holes, gluing in dowels, and starting over again. (12/30/2019)

Here the false fronts are sized and attached to the drawer boxes. I drilled the holes for the handles using another Kreg jig, and used those holes to hold the front in place while I screwed them in from inside the drawer box. I used pennies as spacers. I think the fronts where slightly undersized, but they'll work. (12/31/2019)

I ended up buying a pine slab from Menards rather than gluing up a panel on my own, mostly because of timing and I couldn't find the lumber that would work for me. The slab is thinner than I planned to use, but it will work. I don't have a track saw so I used a circular saw to get most of the way and used a router and a straight edge to cut to length. I was able to use the table saw to cut to width. (1/1/2020)

I put a chamfer on the underside of the table to dress it up a bit. I had to use a smaller chamfer than originally planned because the top is thinner. (1/1/2020)

Justine wanted a natural color for the table top, which I thought was a good look. I had a half gallon of floor polyurethane left over from the family room project so I used it for the top. It has aluminum oxide in it which makes it tougher (according to the literature). (1/3/2020)

I used water based matte polyurethane on the base (and on the drawer fronts here). I used the brush on poly to build the finish and spray on for the final coat. It dries quickly but needs sanding after every coat. The oil based poly for the top did not need sanding between coats as long as you re-applied within 12 hours. (1/3/2020)

My original approach with this project is that it is a table, and as such I had an equal overhang around all four sides. This is intended to cover the refrigerator so it will always be up against the wall. After checking with Justine, I cut off the back of the table top to make it flush with the back of the base.  My straight edge was barely too short, so I had to add the 4' extension to gain the extra 1-1/2" I needed to clamp to the surface. (1/8/2020)

Here the table is assembled and ready to go. As I looked at the completed project, I had a nagging thought. I asked Justine to measure the location of the outlet on the wall in the salon, which I transferred to the plywood. The support bar across the back would block the bottom of the outlet. (1/9/2020)